Bond: Two Epic Climbs in Alaska and a Lifetime's Connection Between Climbers
Author(s): Simon McCartney
'Man, the only - only - good thing about that climb was that you were tied on to the other end of the rope.' Simon McCartney was a cocky young British alpinist climbing many of the hardest routes in the Alps during the late seventies, but it was a chance meeting in Chamonix in 1977 with Californian 'Stonemaster' Jack Roberts that would dramatically change both their lives - and almost end Simon's. Inspired by a Bradford Washburn photograph published in Mountain magazine, their first objective was the 5,500-foot north face of Mount Huntington, one of the most dangerous walls in the Alaska Range. The result was a route so hard and serious that for decades nobody believed they had climbed it - it is still unrepeated to this day. Then, raising the bar even higher, they made the first ascent of the south-west face of Denali, a climb that would prove almost fatal for Simon, and one which would break the bond between him and climbing, separating the two young climbers for over three decades. But the bond between Simon and Jack couldn't remain dormant forever.A lifetime later, a chance reconnection with Jack gave Simon the chance to bury the ghosts of what happened high on Denali, when he had faced almost certain death. The Bond is Simon McCartney's story of these legendary climbs.
Product Information
Winner of Boardman Tasker Prize for Mountain Literature 2016 and Banff Mountain Book Competition 2016.
Simon McCartney was born in London in 1955 and was introduced to the mountains of the UK by his father, Mac. He became addicted to climbing in his early teens and spent his school holidays climbing all over the UK. A fine season in 1977 as the sorcerer's apprentice to Dave Wilkinson, one of Britain's leading alpinists, produced a number of paradigm-changing climbs. A first and extreme ascent in the Bernese Oberland and a string of second ascents and test-piece climbs around Chamonix changed Simon's perspective on what was possible. The pair attempted a summer ascent of the north face of the Eiger but were thwarted by poor weather. Simon climbed the route in the winter of 1979. In 1977 Simon met Californian 'Stonemaster' Jack Roberts in a Chamonix bar. A partnership was formed and the pair went on to test the limits of their ability on two remarkable first ascents in Alaska, the second of which, on Denali in 1980, effectively ended Simon's climbing career. Simon is now a successful businessman living in Hong Kong where his dubious talent in calculated but compulsive risk-taking has continued, albeit on South-East Asia's most prestigious buildings. The Bond is his first book.
Foreword by Mark Westman; Prologue; Chapter 1 First Time Lucky; Chapter 2 Deliverance; Chapter 3 The Walking One and Only; Chapter 4 A New World; Chapter 5 Alaska; Chapter 6 The Ruth Glacier; Chapter 7 Craps; Chapter 8 Roulette; Chapter 9 The Ramp; Chapter 10 The Surprise; Chapter 11 Sheer Luck; Chapter 12 Coming Down; Chapter 13 'An obsession for the mentally deranged'; Chapter 14 Unfinished Business; Chapter 15 The Natural; Chapter 16 Too Loose; Chapter 17 The Valley of Death; Chapter 18 The Fissure McCartney; Chapter 19 Mixed Feelings; Chapter 20 The Roberts Traverse; Chapter 21 Hypoxia; Chapter 22 The Dilemma; Chapter 23 The Choice; Chapter 24 The Freaks; Chapter 25 Airdrop; Chapter 26 Flight; Chapter 27 Providence; Chapter 28 Australia; Chapter 29 The Kangaroo Route; Chapter 30 Hong Kong; Chapter 31 The Bond; Acknowledgements.
General Fields
- :
- : Vertebrate Graphics Ltd
- : Vertebrate Publishing
- : 01 July 2016
- : 234mm X 156mm X 30mm
- : books
Special Fields
- : Simon McCartney
- : Hardback
- : 352
- : black and white photographs, and 2x 16pp colour sections
